This August I had the good fortune to get to Namibia again. Actually, this wasn’t a Pierneef journey. I was with my Australian sister Helen and her husband Michael. We roamed around in our little Suzuki Brezza. We did quite a bit of dirt, but didn’t rough it on the “D” roads. As befits our somewhat aging, suburban selves, we didn’t camp. We stayed in good lodgings, sightseeing, eating good food, sleeping on good mattresses. Tourism then, rather than an art-specific jaunt. But I had my watercolours with me, and although I was avoiding the issue, Pierneef kept cropping up. All those flat-topped acacias of course, and other things, like the antheaps dotting the veld north of Windhoek.

Pierneef went to Namibia in 1923. He was 37, broke, and in a disintegrating marriage. He stayed on a farm near Tsumeb, and was invigorated. After two months, he had enough work – watercolours and linocuts – for a show in Windhoek. It had a major influence on him.

We were very happy in Swakopmund. Coming in from the Namib desert, you’re suddenly in a Teutonic enclave, a treasure trove of German imperial architecture. Such wide streets, so few people on them! They were huddled inside Swakop’s famous restaurants, patisseries, and bars. We stayed just around the corner from the Hohenzollern Haus, and I took the time to do a pen drawing of it. I met a German couple and we fell to talk of the Russian war on Ukraine. Drones, bombs, death. It was all so very far away. Later, we took a little drive to the edge of town on the northern side. There we stood for a while, the Atlantic lapping gently at our feet, the desert stretching ahead. If you were so unlucky as to be stranded a little further up the coast, you might not make it back.

Next afternoon on the main beach, I did a watercolour of the Jetty. It turned out OK, but that’s only half the point. I happen to like parking out in one place, having a slow look at things, watching it all unfold in real time. You see that white bakkie behind me? They had just come up from Walvis Bay and got themselves stuck in the sand. It got much worse. They were closer to the sea with the waves lapping close to the vehicle when I departed the scene unsympathetically. Serves them right for driving on the beach.


I met a mighty, resplendent woman. Her impeccable infant also wore “traditional”garb. They came from far up North, in the Hereroland, where all place names start with “O.”
I saw one other woman in this kind of attire, crossing the street in Otjiwarongo. She had a lot of presence. Katherine Simms, an intrepid English settler who farmed near Mariental in the 1920s, had this to say: “…the Herero are a type quite apart from any other women of southern Africa…they use at least eight yards of print for a skirt. They walk invariably with a slow, haughty gait, smoke clay and tin pipes unceasingly, and have a way of disdaining to answer when spoken to….”
Maybe the cell phone has replaced the tin pipes, but the ongoing re-invention of Victorian clothing is splendid. The Herero people suffered terribly at the hands of the lunatic Germans, and then they took their best apparel and made it uniquely their own. All the Namibians I met, across all ethnicities, were super friendly and proud of their country. People are getting on with stuff. SWAPO, the ruling party since 1990, has avoided the damaging politics of retribution. The result is a thriving and excellent tourism sector. Every single day, planes arrive at Windhoek from Frankfort or Munich. The pink, pale passengers pour out, waving their Euros. They rent big 4x4s, traversing the desert landscapes at speed, climbing the Sossusvlei dunes in the blazing heat. They flock to the waterholes in Etosha in the hope of seeing lion. I noticed an urgency about them, with their checklists of things to do. I felt a little sorry for the poor over- industrialised bastards. Just a few weeks of African space and warmth, and then they’ll be back on that cold, cramped Continent.












































































































